| Life on Tangier, one of Virginia’s oldest communities, has been little changed for generations. First discovered by John Smith and settled in 1686, the island’s community of about 600 has always made its living from the bounty of the bay, and still speaks with the curious accent of its ancestors. Part Cornish, part Southern…….uniquely Tangier. Most of the residents are related to each other in some way and share a handful of surnames – Crockett, Parks, and Pruitt, among others. Though tourism has recently become a major income source, it has yet to totally replace a lifestyle that pulses with the seasons and breathes with the winds and tides. While at once calm and peaceful, Tangier is very much the busy fishing village. Each day during the crabbing season the watermen venture out in their “Chesapeake Bay Deadrise” workboats to secret spots to gather their harvest of oysters and, especially, crabs. Often handed from father to son, most boats bear a woman’s name. They are perfectly maintained, with the varnished brightwork so rare on working vessels, reflecting the captains’ pride.
We tie up at Parks Marina and soon find Mrs. Crockett down the street in the neat yellow bungalow, who sells us some frozen crab meat and the world famous soft shell crabs. Later by the pier we meet Dave Pruitt. A lifelong island resident, he offers to trade crabs for beer, having missed the last boat to the mainland which supplies this “dry” island. An equitable trade is made and somehow a party follows. Friendly islanders and a couple of sailors passing through sit on the docks, trading yarns and toasts, and enjoying the world’s best and freshest crabs, cooked the “island way”. It is an unforgettable experience.
Nowadays, the islanders’ lives adjust to the needs of the community and the tourists. Most of the few local businesses are run by the women while the men continue to draw a living from the bay. But each year the bay yields fewer of its riches. Overfishing, pollution, and loss of habitat impact the crab harvest, and increasingly more Tangier folk depend on tourism to make ends meet. Younger islanders look elsewhere for their fortunes, and older residents wonder how long the “old ways” will last.
But for now, when the tour boats depart in the afternoon, the setting sun turns the marshes to gold, and the captains unload their day’s catch, the peace and simplicity which is Tangier persists as it has for centuries. With any luck, as long as the crabs hold out, it will for a few more. | |
| If you go
There are only two ways to get to Tangier, boats and private aircraft.
It’s about 2 ½ hours from Virginia Beach up Rt 13 to Crisfield, MD, where you can catch a boat to the island. Look for the left turn onto Rt. 667 just over the Maryland line.
The “Courtney Thomas” and the “Steven Thomas” make daily trips with tourists and locals from Crisfield on the Eastern Shore. The “Chesapeake Breeze” makes once daily trips from Reedville, Virginia, on the Western Shore. The boats return after only a couple of hours.
One can hike or bicycle and enjoy the bay views in every direction. There are only a few shops and restaurants.
Try a soft shell crab sandwich from the Waterfront Restaurant, or an ice cream cone from Spanky’s. Three B&B’s serve those interested in staying overnight. Check out http://www.tangierisland-va.com/ for more details.
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